Blueprint the LifeLike:
           by Greg Williams

1.) Wizzard silver electrical kit but use stock brush springs or cut longer ones to .150"
2.) Tyco pinion for better mesh.
3.) Pop bushings out of housings, place on a shaft and file, sand till they rotate freely. Rummor is the #1 and #3 are centered better.
4.) Take a counterbit and chamfer the bearing to narrow the bearing to reduce friction.
5.) Ream bearing to make sure it allows the arm to spin freely.
6.) Get the strongest magnets you can find (use a bolt with washers to gauge strength) and match them.
7.) Make sure the chassis allows the magnets to go to the bottom of the chassis.
8.) Make sure the chassis is straight for both the magnets and wheelbase.
9.) I like the 7/25 ratio but some run Scale Auto's 18 or 22 gears for better top end.
10.) Some buy batches of arms and go thru them to find the fastest this includes popping a Tomy arm in.
11.) Run an independent delrin front end if allowed. Also Scale Auto's O ring setup works well (~.350")
12.) If allowed "pin" the front axle, get rid of the high top guide pin and put a pro guide pin in. The Tomy or Auroras work here.  Glue it in!
13.) If your magnets are painted under the flux collector remove the paint.
14.) Pro setup of .350 fronts and .440 rears works well on most tracks.
15.) Avoid dragging the chassis on the rails as heat is the number one killer of LLs!
16.) The LL is a momentum car. It likes tracks that flow and you're not on the throttle, on the brakes, on the throttle type. Basically just building up momentum and going faster and faster just feathering the brakes every now and then to gently scrub off speed. A controller with coast is welcomed.
17.) This is from the collective minds of the Arizona HO Racing Association (no, we're not the Borg!) We have no secrets, share all our knowledge and then try to beat the heck out of each other and put of state biggie races!

Have Fun and Good Luck!