| You can build some attractive and functional drivers stations for your HO slot car track
without spending a ton of money. Here's some step-by-step instructions on how to build some nice looking drivers stations with lane colored power hook ups, directional and brake
switches, and a custom car park section with a powered tire scuffing area. Most of the parts can be purchased at any home improvement center, and some parts are even free. That's right- FREEBIES!   For years we had fairly scruffy looking drivers stations made from parts of an old shelving unit. Controller hook ups were small speaker jacks and the directional switches were
micro-switches. These stations and all of the original track wiring had to go in order to run sufficient power for todays powerful magnet cars. To see the complete wiring overhall,
click here. The first order of business was finding nice shelving for the stations. I chose
these white laminated pre-made shelves available at Home Depot®. They have many different lengths available for affordable prices. (Look for sales!) 
While there, I also picked up the new shelf brackets, 500 ft.
of 18 ga thermostat wiring, and the  FREEBIE Formica Samples in the kitchen counter area. These sample pieces are nearly perfect for the controller
hook-up plates and switches for your drivers stations. You should be able to match most any lane color from the freebie selections. The ones in my store had holes for the rack, but if you're lucky you
can find samples without holes. You can use the rack hole, but it's a bit close to the edge.
Next I purchased heavy duty two way switches from Radio Shack, according to the Accu-Tech wiring
chart and directions. The brake switches are single pole, double throw. The directional switches are double pole, double throw. You'll also need some 18 gauge or larger multi-strand wire for some of the
connections on the switches. Something like extension cord wire will suffice if the hardware store is closed. ;-) The next thing you will need are the posts for the controller hook-ups.
Depending on your needs- If you choose to purchase high-end posts, you're on your own how to drill and mount those. I went with the easier route and
bought 1/4" lag bolts that seat right into the wood in the bottom of the shelf when you tighten the top lock nuts. You can simply pinch your power wires below the shoulder of the bolt head when tightening.
Figure out your shelf layouts and mark them clearly. FOR THE  CONTROLLER HOOK-UPS:
Drill 1/4" holes through the colored formica panels and the shelf at the same time to garrantee that the holes line up. You'll need 3 evenly spaced holes for set ups with brakes.  FOR THE DIRECTION AND BRAKE SWITCHES:
Again, drill the 1/4" holes first through the shelf at the same to make it easy to line everything up. Make sure you leave enough room for the switch
boxes. To drill the large holes for the switches in the small formica panels, I clamped them to a block of wood and used a reamer to slowly open up the holes evenly.
  For drilling the larger switch holes in the shelf I was able to use a hole saw diameter just smaller than the length of the switch housing, and was
able to file small grooves for the corners to fit in very snugly and keep them from turning. The formica panels can be glued in place later with Liquid Nails after all of the wire installation and
soldering is finished.....Time to move on to your track wiring! CAR PARKING AND TIRE SCUFF AREA:
For a car park area you can use sections of old track. I cut off the ends with a Dremel and capped  them with styrene sheet. The track sections  were painted white to match the
shelving and secured with a center wood screw. We built special tire scuffing areas to scuff rubber tires. It really works well with Tycos and SuperG+ cars. Both kinds of tires
get a glazed, smooth look after continuous running and scuffing gets back the traction and actually lowers the height a bit. Our scuff areas have track power in the ends of
the track section which is achieved by cutting through the rails with a cut-off wheel. Then the
wire tap hook up procedure is done for  the track end. I also placed a good sized blob of solder into the  groove to catch the pin and help hold the car with your fingers.
I drilled 1/8" holes in a square section to help keep the abrasive scuff section clean. (You need to remove the power rails in these areas.) The pieces of 3M abrasive material were
glued in place, and the track sections were labeled with signage made on the computer. The color labels were covered in clear packing tape for a lamination and were
mounted with 3M double sided tape. The labels create a very professional look. Finally Velcro® is added to secure the controllers and you're finished.
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